We parked on Brookline Ave, as usual, roughly a one-mile walk from the park. I had a mask with me—as one does—but wasn’t planning to wear it until we arrived at the gate. However, upon seeing virtually every fellow pedestrian in sight with his or her face covered—possibly because they were standing in the shadows of the Longwood Medical Area, the nexus of elite healthcare in New England—I caved to peer pressure and slapped mine on as well. You know, just to fit in.
I have attended at least one Red Sox game at Fenway Park every year since 1997, along with concerts by Bruce Springsteen and Paul McCartney and (for some reason) a Harvard-Yale football bout. Tragically, that streak ended in 2020, when the coronavirus pandemic prevented anyone from attending anything, and I was denied my annual pilgrimage to America’s oldest, greenest sports palace—a place John Updike famously described as “a lyric little bandbox of a ballpark.”
The unusually long wait to return to Fenway—combined with the continued logistical nuisances of COVID—made for a most peculiar sense of anticipation as we made our way to Gate E. Knowing the capacity for the evening’s matchup against Oakland was capped at 25 percent—a doubling of the previous limit—we expected far less hullabaloo than usual both inside and outside the stadium. And boy, did we get it.
On both Lansdowne Street and Brookline Ave—the most commercially bustling blocks that abut the 1912 structure—diners enjoyed meals on umbrella-capped outdoor tables that didn’t exist pre-2020, while modest hordes of pedestrians shuffled about in all directions, some headed to the game, others to the commuter train for their trip home. While hardly a ghost town—the gift shops were profitably selling their wares and the aromas from the sausage vendors were as pungent as ever—the neighborhood nonetheless exhibited a subtly muted atmosphere compared to the raucous, festive pomp that one expects from supporters of a team that is currently first place in the entire American League.
In any case, the true pandemic-induced surrealism occurred inside the park, which we entered after completing a digital health survey through a glitchy MLB app on-site (…which security staff proceeded not to check). Apart from the Samuel Adams beer corner—where I purchased my inaugural $11 can of Summer Ale—the stadium’s concourse was all but deserted once the game began, with rows of refreshment windows sealed shut and acres of standing room space roped off. With only 9,000 souls allowed inside the premises, why bother?
In the seats, each “pod” of fans numbered either two or four, with ample real estate separating each party. While official policy required patrons to wear face coverings at all times except when eating or drinking—an injunction that, by my reckoning, was largely followed—this hardly stopped the nearby loudmouth in the $200 jersey from barefacedly bellowing the usual R-rated chants every few seconds. In fairness, you’d hate for that sort of language to be muffled.
Circling the innards of the park during the middle innings, studiously taking in the weirdness as I went, I was slightly surprised how grateful I felt simply to be there again and (attendance notwithstanding) to see how little the joint had changed since my last visit.
Indeed, as any viewer of “Field of Dreams”—specifically James Earl Jones’s closing speech—well knows, the whole point of baseball is that it’s always there and never fundamentally changes. While the reality of that sentiment is dubious at best—I certainly don’t remember digital pitch clocks and instant replay reviews from my early days as a spectator, let alone such ridiculous terms as “exit velocity” and “wins above replacement”—America’s pastime still occasionally retains its essence as the quirky, conservative, pastoral athletic endeavor that it was when it was invented—albeit apocryphally—on a cow pasture in a tiny hamlet in Upstate New York. Personally, I wouldn’t have it any other way.
I’ve noted previously that, despite my unbroken-except-for-COVID streak of Fenway trips over the last quarter-century, I haven’t deeply cared about or followed the travails of Boston’s hometown nine since their initial modern-day championships in 2004 and 2007. In a post-Curse of the Bambino era, I just don’t feel the same urgency and angst about the team’s fortunes year in and year out. While I can still recite their late-1990s starting lineup from memory, I couldn’t name more than a handful of the current roster, nor would I recognize them walking down the street, in or out of uniform.
But Fenway Park itself—so far, at least—is eternal. First opened to the public the same week the Titanic hit the iceberg, the lyric little bandbox has undergone various tweaks and upgrades through the decades—from the Monster seats to artisanal food options beyond “a dog and a beer”—but is otherwise pretty much the same cramped, whimsical green Easter egg it has always been and, in all likelihood, always will be.
There is real comfort and reassurance in this fact—in knowing that, even amidst the pain and turmoil of a once-in-a-century plague, one can still wander down to Jersey Street for three hours to see two ballclubs hash it out over nine innings, as if nothing out of the ordinary were occurring.
Beyond its function as a commercial venue, Fenway is a symbol of continuity and institutional fortitude in a society that insists on plowing ever-forward, as if the past really were a foreign country (to coin a phrase).
As such, however I may feel about the Red Sox and Major League Baseball writ large, I expect I’ll continue returning annually to Fenway until one of us is dead and gone (God knows which will happen first). In the shorter term, I look forward to my next game—perhaps later this season—hoping against hope that it will be held before 37,000 vaccinated fans, not one of whom will be wearing a goddamned mask.